Step inside 855 Aloha and you’re transported back to the golden era of Waikīkī, the swinging ’60s when it had yet to boom into the heavily touristed resort town that it is today. Hawaiian singer Don Ho & The Aliis had catapulted onto the scene, Elvis was rocking aloha shirts fashioned from Japanese kimono silk in Blue Hawai’i, and surf culture had exploded thanks to the legendary Duke Kahanamoku, who inspired a generation of wave riders at Waikīkī’s iconic breaks like Queens and Canoes. The world was quickly becoming fascinated by all things Hawai’i, including its cuisine—a pupu platter of Native Hawaiian, Chinese, Portuguese, Korean, Japanese, Filipino, and American influence that was a result in the island’s diverse population.
Brooke Fitts
At the new adults-only hotel Romer House, chef Bradley Dodson has tapped into that history and created a culinary love story to vintage O’ahu—a menu that celebrates the best bites of the island where travelers can get a taste of some of the local food that makes it so unique. At 855 Aloha, the hotel’s sit-down restaurant, and the Lei Stand, the in-house speakeasy, you’ll find drinks and dishes that are both nostalgia-inducing and modern all at once.
Brooke Fitts Photo for 855-Aloha
The restaurant’s name itself is a throwback to the phone booths that once dotted the islands, where you could dial 855-ALOHA to connect with a global operator and call anywhere in the world. Much like pua (plumeria), roosters, and the shaka, the phone booths have become one of the iconic symbols of Hawai’i. And while they may not be as internationally recognizable as London’s cherry red K6 kiosks, they’re a fun rewind in an increasingly digitized world. (855 Aloha actually has one of the booths perched near the host stand, a perfect photo op for locals and travelers alike. And near the Lei Stand you’ll find a fridge full of absolutely breathtaking fresh lei from local floral artist Dale Acoba, also known as 37 VP.) Here are some of the classic local dishes Dodson drew inspiration from for his menu that are worth a visit while on island.
Brooke Fitts Photo for 855-Aloha
Gau Gee at 8 Fat Fat 8
“On Mondays, I love to go to Fat 8,” says Dodson. “I sit at the bar and get the gau gee. There’s Wheel of Fortune on the TV and I’m talking story with the auntie behind the bar. It’s the best.” This legendary dive-bar-turned-Chinese-family-restaurant that’s been around since the 1980s serves up bar-friendly fare. The original fried potsticker features ground pork, but 855’s vegetarian version captures the same soul with mushrooms, black bean sauce, and Sichuan peppercorns. “It’s a comforting, indulgent bite,” he says. “Get a platter and share with friends.”
Brooke Fitts Photo for 855-Aloha
Pork Chop at Side Street Inn
Side Street Inn‘s iconic pan-fried pork chop plate epitomizes the indulgent comfort food locals love. “It’s like six bone-in pork chops, fried and seasoned,” Dodson describes. At 855, the golden brown chop gets an upgrade but maintains its soul—served with pineapple sweet and sour and Chinese hot mustard on a bed of cabbage. “It’s very indulgent and comforting. Pork chops are a more humble and homey ingredient, but they’re classic for a reason.”
Cantonese Steamed Bass at Any Place Lounge
Any Place Lounge represents the heart of what made vintage Waikiki dining special—genuine hospitality that spans generations. “Every time I go in there with my family, the matriarch of the establishment comes in and greets my daughter. She’ll get something from her toy chest and bring it out to her. And they already know our order and immediately put the bass in,” Dodson recalls. The selection of pupus (think small, shareable appetizers or finger foods served at communal gatherings and parties) at Any Place includes items like Spam and egg sandos and dried ika or cuttlefish, which is popular in Chinese, Japanese, and traditional Hawaiian cuisine. Similarly at 855, Dodson starts the menu with a gaggle of pupus like garlic shrimp, gau gee, and poke hand rolls.
Kalbi at Your Friend’s BBQ
While not tied to one specific restaurant, Kalbi ribs represent the Korean influence that became integral to Hawaii’s local food culture during the plantation era. “[At backyard parties,] it’s a gathering and a potluck sort of feeling where it’s family style, and all sorts of shared plates,” explains Dodson. This communal dining style where Korean, Chinese, Portuguese, Filipino, and Hawaiian flavors would literally come together on the same table, defines the essence of local food. You can get a sense of the melting pot just walking the aisles at our favorite local grocery chain Foodland or seeing weekend picnics on the beach on the West end. On the menu at 855, you’ll find a fancier version of kalbi made with prime short rib, sesame, kimchi, and scallion. It’s gussied up, but not so much so that it’s estranged from its origins.
Brooke Fitts Photo for 855-Aloha
Haupia Pie at Diamond Head Grill
Diamond Head Grill embodies the casual elegance of vintage Waikīkī. It’s a place where “you can grab a bottle of wine and then they have homemade carrot cake or haupia [coconut pudding] pie,” says Dodson. His version of haupia is pretty tricked out. “It’s got li hing mui [dried Chinese plum, a Hawaiian pantry staple] and [Chinese] five spice, and there’s little bit of whiskey. You just like take a scoop of that and pour that over your ice cream.” It’s a dish that captures the playful, indulgent spirit of 855, and the Romer House as whole.
