Tucked at the northernmost end of Napa Valley, Calistoga feels like the last honest outpost in a region that’s otherwise gone full Disneyland. This crunchy little cowboy town still smells faintly of woodsmoke and mineral springs, and the dress code skews more vintage Levi’s than linen suit, making it the perfect spot for a weekender away from the City.
Long before the Michelin stars and spa menus, this area drew travelers for its geothermal waters bubbling up from the earth thanks to a volcanic system. These natural wonders gave rise to the region’s first hot spring resorts in the 19th century. And even now, you can feel that same raw, restorative energy. Calistoga keeps its dusty boots planted firmly in the past, but manages to also be a modern-day escape. Here’s how to make a perfect weekender out of your visit.
Mark Compton
DO
Start with a mineral soak or a mud bath at Dr. Wilkinson’s, the town’s OG spa hotel that’s been reimagined with midcentury flair but still retains it’s unfussy l’esprit du lieu . From there, fill up your water bottle with their fancy Aqua Ovo-filtered water and hit the Oat Hill Mine Trail, a local favorite that winds through chaparral and volcanic rock formations with wide-open views of the valley floor. For something softer, Bothe-Napa Valley State Park offers shaded trails through redwoods and oaks, and even a public swimming pool filled with spring water in summer. Travelers looking for a horse-and-vineyard experience can visit Tamber Bey Vineyards, a working ranch in Calistoga where prized Arabian and mustang horses share space with grapevines, and tastings take place just steps from the stables—a nod to Napa Valley’s equestrian roots.
Photo courtesy of Solage
EAT
The food scene in this neck of the woods reflects Calistoga’s unpretentious charm. At Dr. Wilkinson’s House of Better, the kitchen leans into healthy comfort food that’s way more delicious than lightly dressed salads and bland oats. Life is all about balance, so grab one of their wonderfully flavorful Mexican-inspired protein bowls with sautéed kale, black beans, avocado, pickled zucchini and rice, and opt for a slice of their famous homemade pie for dessert. For smoky, no-frills satisfaction, Buster’s Original BBQ is a local institution where you’ll eat ribs off paper plates while blues hum through the speakers. Evangeline brings a touch of French-Cajun finesse (the shrimp and grits and mint juleps are legendary), and Solbar at Solage balances wellness and indulgence with seasonal dishes that pull from the Auberge property’s gardens. For a classic tavern-style meal that’s a local favorite, Calistoga Inn Restaurant delivers wood-fired pizzas, local ales, and live music under the sycamores.
Courtesy of Tank Garage Winery
DRINK
A trip to Calistoga isn’t complete without a stop at Tank Garage Winery, a retrofitted 1930s gas station that’s equal parts tasting room and time capsule. Expect funky blends of esoteric varietals made in an experimental winemaking style (crystal-charged cab anyone?) Nearby Picayune Cellars offers an intimate, art-filled tasting space showcasing small-lot wines and artisan goods from around the West. Prepare for some of the best tipsy shopping in the biz, and consider your credit card warned. When you’re ready to swap tasting notes for tall tales, head to Susie’s Bar, a locals’ haunt where boots outnumber loafers and everyone seems to know each other’s dogs by name.
Codi Ann Backman
STAY
Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs remains the soul of Calistoga’s wellness tradition, offering soaking pools, vintage-modern rooms, and a playful nod to its midcentury roots. At the opposite end of the spectrum, Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley brings polished luxury to the edges of town, complete with vineyard views, a world-class spa, and rooms that smell faintly of cedar and wine. For something more classic and central, the Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa is a charming boutique option along the main drag, with cozy rooms and quirky style that speaks to the surrounding area.
