Sunset’s Insider Guide series highlights seasonal diversions and secret travel tips from local experts. Follow along as we learn where to eat, drink, stay, and shop.
Photo by Anaïs & Dax
Meet the Insider: Courtney Humiston, Proprietor, Delphinium Wine Co.
Location: Jenner, California
“Jenner-by-the-Sea” is a small town, and we mean small. With a population of just over 100 residents, this stunner on the Sonoma Coast is perched above the mouth of the Russian River as it opens onto the Pacific. Here, Courtney Humiston, a winemaker, journalist, and sommelier, shares some of the best of the wild coastline that inspired her sparkling wine company, Delphinium.
STAY
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The Jenner Inn is not an inn, per se. It’s a collection of quaint, homey rooms and cottages of varying sizes embedded in the slopes above the river. From every room, large or small, you can watch from your porch as curious harbor seals pop up their heads or majestic pelicans dive for their latest meal. Another excellent option is River’s End Restaurant & Inn, which has both small cabins and some more spacious private homes right on the river, making for the most magical of sunsets
EAT
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Cafe Aquatica is a perfect way to start a day in Jenner. The staff is never in a hurry, so you can’t be, either. Breathe in the salty air and enjoy the wildlife as you wait for your coffee, clam chowder, or avocado toast. On Sunday afternoons, there is acoustic music on the wooden stage, a perfect accompaniment to the gently crashing waves. And dinner at River’s End Restaurant is like taking a time machine back to 1927 when River’s End first opened. There is no cell service or WiFi, so settle in, unplug, and surrender to the warm service and nostalgic fare. Tables are set for a romantic, fine dining experience, and the big wood bar is opulent and cozy—the perfect spot for a martini.
DO
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One of the best oyster farms on the West Coast is Hog Island, just 30 minutes south of Jenner on Highway 1. Plan ahead and get a couple of dozen small, briny Sweetwater oysters from the farm and a bottle or two of Delphinium sparkling wine, which I created specifically for this occasion, and high-tail it to Goat Rock Beach. Set up at a picnic table on the bluff above or throw down a blanket on the sand and be fully and completely happy.
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Make sure to carve out time to paddleboard or kayak from the Jenner Boat Launch to the mouth of the Russian River. You casually explore Penny Island, Goat Rock Beach, and Jenner Beach. My personal favorite is the latter, which is on the north side of the river, and, due to less foot traffic, makes for excellent beachcombing. Bring some snacks bought at the Jenner Sea Store bodega (say hi to Larry!) and make a day of it.
The Jenner Headlands might be one of California’s best-kept secrets, covering more than 5,500 acres of nature preserve just 0.5 miles north of the town of Jenner off Highway 1. The aptly named Sea to Sky Trail will take you through open meadows with expansive views of the Pacific Ocean and Russian River and into the Redwoods, where one can indulge in impromptu forest bathing. The contrast from coastal to forest and back again in a single hike is truly special and will engage all the senses.
