Shorter days and longer nights mean it’s time to brighten up your meals with seasonal citrus. Right about now and through March, fruits like tangerines, grapefruits, blood oranges, and lemons are ripe for harvest in your garden—and at their most plump in grocery stores. A versatile ingredient, citrus can be incorporated throughout your weekly menus, from salads and desserts to garden-to-glass cocktails.
While citrus has a reputation for being tangy and sometimes sour, these flavor profiles make them a key ingredient that can be used to balance sweetness or add a kick to neutral flavors. Citrus grows particularly well in California due to the warm climate, so if you can source your citrus locally, do it! That will allow them to grow to full flavor potential instead of ripening in transport. If you grow your own, allow your fruit to plump up as much as possible.
Samantha Sheehan, founder and maker of the Mommenpop line of apéritifs that pair different types of citrus with grapes, credits the versatility of the fruits to their acidity. “If you want to have a bright and refreshing drink, you can add acid to heighten it. If you’re using deeper and richer tones in your foods, you can add citrus so it doesn’t taste as monotone.” Sheehan’s dye-free spritzes range from Seville oranges with a base of Chardonnay to grapefruit and cardamom with rosé.
In fact, citrus can act as a key ingredient in a wide variety of drinks. Joey Bernardo, creator of LiveWire’s Honeydew Collins and bartender at Broken Shaker in Los Angeles, describes the fruits as an “ubiquitous ingredient behind the bar.” In mixology, citrus is “the proverbial other side of the cocktail coin; stir spirit-only drinks, shake citrus drinks.”
While the most common citrus used in cocktails are lemons and limes, others like grapefruit, kumquat, and calamansi contribute unique flavors that complement spirits. Bernardo’s trick? “Grilling lemons and grapefruits before juicing can open up so many doors and add such a tasty, earthy char to drinks.”
Here are a few recipes Sunset recommends to add to your winter recipe lineup.
Salads
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Chicory Salad with Winter Citrus, Avocado, and Fennel Vinaigrette
Says Sonoma chef Kelly Mariani of this recipe: “When I think of a classic ‘California winter’ salad, this is what comes to mind. It celebrates how special California is. Our coldest season is still amazing.”
2 of 6Thomas J. Story
Citrus Salad with Spiced Vanilla Syrup
This easy fruit salad looks especially striking made with multiple varieties and colors of blood oranges and grapefruit, but it’s just as delicious with a single kind of each. You’ll have enough syrup left over for flavoring sparkling water or lattes.
3 of 6Erin Kunkel
Brussels Sprout Salad with Pecorino and Tangerines
If you’ve never had raw Brussels sprouts before, this salad will be a revelation. To save time, use a handheld slicer for the sprouts and onion.
4 of 6Annabelle Breakey
Crab and Tangerine Salad
Just a few deftly chosen ingredients make for an elegant, complex-tasting salad. Serve it with warm rolls and glasses of cold, crisp, white wine.
5 of 6Ngoc Minh Ngo
Lettuce Snap Pea Salad with Meyer Lemon Cream
In winter, when most of the country hunkers down under gray skies, Suzanne Goin serves sunny Meyer lemon salads like this one at Lucques in West Hollywood. To enjoy the whole lemon slices, cut them very thinly; if your knife skills aren’t restaurant-ready, use a handheld slicer.
6 of 6Victor Protasio
Red Pear Salad with Lemon Parmesan Dressing
Imagine a cheese plate in salad form: Sweet red d’Anjou pears team up with sharp, nutty parmesan. Though the red pears add a pop of color, green ones work well, too. Save any extra dressing as a dip for raw vegetables or to slather on bread.
Main Courses
1 of 6Thomas J. Story
Spicy Blood Orange and Lemongrass Chicken
Attention, citrus lovers: This dish includes zest in the lemongrass-chile rub, juice in the refreshing dressing, and peeled segments in the crunchy cucumber and shallot topping.
2 of 6
Penne with Pistachio Pesto and Lemony Ricotta
This penne pasta is topped with a ricotta that’s mixed with Meyer lemon juice and black pepper
3 of 6Jennifer Causey
Roasted Rockfish with Artichokes, Citrus, and Lemon-Caper Browned Butter
Rockfish, also known as Pacific snapper or rock cod, is one of the most sustainable and widely available fish in the West; it has a mildly sweet flavor. Vermilion rockfish, with their scarlet hue, are especially pretty and tasty. For a large feast-worthy fish, order ahead of time from your seafood shop or counter.
4 of 6Ngoc Minh Ngo
Crab Pasta with Prosecco and Meyer Lemon Sauce
West Coast Dungeness crab and Meyer lemons come together deliciously in this special-occasion pasta. At A16 Rockridge in Oakland, chef Rocky Maselli made it with housemade squid-ink tonnarelli; we opted for fettuccine since it’s easier to find.
5 of 6Annabelle Breakey
Crispy Duck Breasts with Balsamic-Glazed Tangerines
Duck breasts have thick skin, so it’s best to cook them slowly over a low flame to render the fat. Here, we used that fat to make a decadent glaze studded with citrus segments.
6 of 6Erin Kunkel
Grilled Shrimp with Basil Lemon Pistou
For Feast Hawaii, chef Bella Toland, then of Maui’s Travaasa Hana (now Hana-Maui) resort added tender yellow corn sprouts to the platter. Grown indoors on the island year-round, they’re a few weeks old and taste just like corn. This version excludes them but is just as delicious.
Desserts
1 of 6Annabelle Breakey
Whole Orange Cake
Every good cook needs a moist, dense cake in his or her repertoire. This one, which is loaded with orange flavor and tender flecks of peel, is not too sweet. That means it’s perfect for brunch as well as dessert.
2 of 6Thomas J. Story
Blood Orange and Bittersweet Chocolate Sorbet
The marvelous merger of orange and chocolate gets even better when you pair blood oranges’ raspberry nuances with dark chocolate and a little Campari for complexity. The herbal, slightly bitter liqueur also helps keep the sorbet from getting icy.
3 of 6Ngoc Minh Ngo
Meyer Lemon Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake
A polenta cake from pastry chef Hannah Buoye, of A16 Rockridge in Oakland, was the model for this dense, moist dessert. As the sliced lemons bake under the cake and absorb butter and brown sugar, they take on a marmalade-like quality. Be sure the cake is fully baked before you remove it from the oven, or it may sink.
4 of 6Erin Kunkel
Lime Tartlets with Orange Blossom Cream and Toasted Fennel
Emily Rosenberg, a pastry sous chef at the Four Seasons Maui at Wailea, added toasted fennel seeds to give the tart a subtle crunch. You may have leftover dough, but you can use it to make cookies (sprinkle them with turbinado sugar and bake at 325°F). You’ll have leftover lime curd, too. It’s delicious with ice cream or spooned into biscuits or onto pancakes, and lasts a month in the fridge.
5 of 6James Carrier
Orange-Spice Madeleines
The neighborhood will smell the sweet aroma of almond and orange when you’re baking this French cookie recipe. Just be sure you’ve made enough to share.
6 of 6Thomas J. Story
Lemon Lava Cakes
For a lighter, more refreshing take on traditional chocolate lava cake, we subbed in white chocolate for the dark and added creamy lemon curd. The center of the dessert still comes out enticingly molten at serving time. Top with berries for a bright burst of color and flavor.
Cocktails
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Ruby Dove
If you like a Paloma, you’ll love this grapefruit and tequila cocktail that pushes the citrus flavor with a house-made cordial and brings the heat with serrano syrup.
2 of 6Nicola Parisi
Grapefruit Garibaldi
Step aside mimosas, the Grapefruit Garibaldi is the cocktail you need to brighten up brunch. The tart, fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice cuts the sweetness of the Mommenpop Grapefruit apéritif, meshing well with either club soda or Prosecco to lift the aromas.
3 of 6Cassie Winslow
Pink Grapefruit and Chamomile Paloma
Cassie Winslow, founder of the blog Deco Tartelette and the author of Floral Libations, shares her refreshing and calming take on the Paloma.
4 of 6Thomas J. Story
Salted Meyer Lemon Cocktail
This cocktail is a boozy take on the beloved soda chanh muôi, the salted lemonade soda found at restaurants, bakeries, and street stalls throughout Vietnam. Leave out the vodka for a refreshing drink any time of year. Salting and preserving the lemons takes three months, but that investment of time is worth it; once made, they’ll last indefinitely.
5 of 6
Del Mar
This drink gets its backbone from aromatic gin and a zippy grapefruit shrub, which is herby and tangy. Play with different vinegars to subtly adjust the acidity and flavor profile.
6 of 6Sydney Yorkshire
Free Parking Cocktail
This recipe was shared with us by the team at U-Street Pizza in Pasadena, California. The pizza joint nestled next door to the popular Italian eatery Union recently expanded to add a cocktail and wine program. The Free Parking cocktail caught our eye for its use of lime juice. With orange wine as a base, it’s a great option to serve at a party and enjoy in rounds.
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